Sears OVERLOCK 385. 564180 manual

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Table of contents for the manual

  • Page 1

    OWNER'S MANUAL OVERLOCK 3j4 MODEL 385. 564180[...]

  • Page 2

    Dear Customer: You have just invested in a very fine overtock. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are gLven on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain t[...]

  • Page 3

    TABLE OFCONTENTS SECTION SECT! ON SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE Locate and Identify the Parts ............... 3_4 Identify the Accessories ..................... 4 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power .... 5 Foot Control Use .... ...................... 5 How to Turn Hand Wheel ....................... 6 Opemng[...]

  • Page 4

    Face plate Thread take-up lever thread gude Let[ needle thread tension dia! Need le thread guide Rigilt needle tllread guide Side cover Upper looper thread guide (t) Upper looper thread tension dial Lower looper thread gude (1) Lower looper thread tension dial Carrying handle Right needle thread tension dial Looper cover -Stitch tength dial Plug [...]

  • Page 5

    Needle clamp screws Upper knife Needle ptate Presser foot Needle plate set screw Knife holder knife Lower looper thread guide 14) Lower looper thread guide (3} Needle bar thread guide Needle clamp Foot holder Upper looper Upper looper thread guide Lower looper Upper looper thread guide (2) "!_ Lower looper thread guide (2) Thread cutter Presse[...]

  • Page 6

    _r _IU_ _ i_ _ _ i_ _M a chrin_ _a _d Swit_ h _ _ _t_ _ J_w_ _ _ _ Power supply plug supply Power switch conneCtOr Machine plug NOTE: Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch is OFF, 1, Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110to 120 Volt AC out_et. 2, insert the machine plug into the three-prong plug connector, as shown[...]

  • Page 7

    _eel Always turn hand wheel toward you. ¸¸, Side To open: Push the side cover to the left. To close: Push the side cover to the right and slightly toward the mach}ne body, Looper cover To open: While pushing with the thumb to the right as far as it will go, pull looper cover toward you. To close: Lift looper cover and push against the machine. Th[...]

  • Page 8

    • v ":: :: ! =i::_: L•¸": •:i/>;: ?i: ¸ :! • ••i_•LI /h :¸" _'_•i' :'_ ,:i::•j!:j ii :¸ >!:i:: :-:•7_: ••:• :•_ _" : •/:=::-• The Position 0fThread GuideBar e bar |Thread gutde i = I I1"_ _! 1 | , lJ?l ] i _ I H----J o | i , 11 _-I_s,o_4,, | 1 Jl II V ! , _II fi ! LOI[...]

  • Page 9

    ,; Raising. o_ L "_ ;'= _ ,_: T:_,:_"_ ;,._o _=_,,:werin= , _,.g _=., _ =the Presser Foot, _'= :_ .._ =, _feSSer _oOt Iifter By raising or lowering the presser foot lifter, the presser foot goes up and down. While in operation, keep the presser foot lowered except for testing stitches, threading the machine or sewing heavy weigh[...]

  • Page 10

    ::i I: Th _ead i ngl the Mach ine I I. Green | 3.Blu e_------___,::2_] I J ,_'k p.Orano - I f Threading Chart (Located behind tooper cover) For your convenience, your Kenmore ovedock has been pre-threaded. To prepare to sew with your choice of threads, follow these simple instructions: - Connect the power supply plug to the wall outlet and tu[...]

  • Page 11

    e Threading the Lower Looper ® Open the looper and side covers. Loosen screw and remove presser foot assembly. Place the spool of thread on the right side spool pin. i * Points to thread for lower looper are marked 10 [ in green. Thread guide (9 _ ....................... J (_) Draw the thread through the right side thread guide from back to fron[...]

  • Page 12

    ._- looper Ik-k %._-___ I g_,de I_l 31_ EL;xT..- Looper I " ,..oooo, threader __ __ 0 ,deI41 III hl I /, I / _ Lower ! // | _ looper thread I Lower looper Looper li_read w (_) Insert the thread between tension (_) Pass the thread through the thread gutde (2}. (_ Turn the hand wheel toward (_ Putt the threader to pass the discs from the right[...]

  • Page 13

    e Threading the Upper Looper Thread guide p_ate i./ thread guide & C) Draw the thread through (_) Pass the thread through the (_ Pass the thread through the the thread guide second holes in the second row left side of thread guide from the right from back to from the right of thread sliding the thread from right front, guide plate as illustrate[...]

  • Page 14

    -,_ toope_ thread _(_ _ ,ens,on dia, J Insert tension discs from the thread between the right, Then pufl both sides of thread. _) Pass the thread through upper looper thread guide (1). (_ Pass the thread through upper looper thread guJde (2). (_ Pass the thread through the looper thread take- up lever (upper). Loope_ threader_ /Uppe_ fooper lhread [...]

  • Page 15

    e Threading the Needle on the Right © _ Thread gu+de ® (_ Draw the thread through the thread guide second from the left from back to front. (_) Pass the thread through the holes +n the second row from the left of thread guide plate as illustrated. 14 Place the spool of thread on the spool pin second from the left. + Points to thread for needle on[...]

  • Page 16

    Right needle threat tension dial (_ Insert the thread between tension discs from the right. Then pull both sides of thread. ®® Thread take-up lever thread guide t Right needle thread guide Turn the hand wheet toward you to bring need{e bar to its highest position, then pass the thread through right needle thread guide and thread take-up leverthre[...]

  • Page 17

    e Threading the Needle on the Left ® 16 0 Place the spool of thread on the left side spool pin. * Points to thread for needle on the teft are marked in orange. Thread guide (_) Draw the thread through the thread guide on the le/t from back to front, Thread gutde plate (_) Pass the thread through the holes on the left of thread guide plate as illus[...]

  • Page 18

    2® _= needle thread I [ension dial _-_ Thread take-up [_ lever thread guide ......J (_ Insert the thread between tension discs from the right. Then pull both sides of thread. (_ Turn the hand wheel toward you to bring needle bar to its highest position, then pass the thread through thread take-up lever thread gu ide. Needle guide Needle bar thread[...]

  • Page 19

    (_, (_) (_) Insert the fabric under the toe ot the foot. (It is not necessary to raise the fooL) (_ Turn the hand wheel gently toward you a couple of turns and check the thread chain. Then start sewing slowly. The fabric will be auto- maticatly fed, Guide the fabric in the direction desired. !iiii!ii t When stitching Js completed, continue to run t[...]

  • Page 20

    Securing Ends To avokd unravelling, _t Is necessary to leave a thread chain about 5 cm (2") long at the beginning and end of seam, To secure the beginning and end of a seam choose one of the lotlowmg methods. At the Begmn|ng A. Separate the end of threads and knot, B. Thread tile chain through a large eyed needle, and weave that chain through [...]

  • Page 21

    At the End You can use the same methods as at the beginning to secure the end of seam except "Backstttching", or the methods shown below. (_ Serge one stitch off the end of seam. ®® (_) Rinse the needle and presser foot, and gently pull the threads off the prong. ® Turn the fabric over so that the under sIde is up. (_ Serge about 2.5 c[...]

  • Page 22

    :Thread Tension (4 threads) Thread Tension Dial f Setting mark Loosen L _ Tighten Correct Tension Needle thread on the rtght looper J Thread Tension Need Ie thread Needle thread tension (L) tension (R) Upper looper Lower looper thread tension thread tension The line below the setting of 3 on each of the dials indicates normal tension for 4 threads [...]

  • Page 23

    Thread Tension Adjustment * Set all four thread tension dials at "3" Wrong Tension on the left ts loose. looper thread Cower looper thread Tighten needle thread tenston on the left. Needle thread Needle lhread tension (L) _enston tR) O) Q Upper looper Lower looper thread tenslotl lhreed tenslon * It is easier to adjust by using 4 differen[...]

  • Page 24

    Wrong Tension _er thread is tight and/or read is loose. looper thread Loosen fewer looper thread tension and!or tighten upper looper thread tension. Needle tt_read Needle tl_tead tens_o_ ILl _enslon (R) @@ Uppe[ looper Lower looper the*cad tenSlO_*_ lt_read tension Wrong Tension thread is tlght and/or is loose. looper thread Loosen upper looper thr[...]

  • Page 25

    Using the Needle on the Right Only (for narrow three-thread sergmg) Disconnect the machine from the power suppiy. Remove the needle and the thread on the left, Then tighten the needle clamp screw on the left slightly to avoid tosing the screw. Using the Needle on the Left Only (for wide three-thread sergtng) Remove the needle and the thread on the [...]

  • Page 26

    Thread Tension Adjustment " Set alt three thread tension dials at "3" Then sew. and check the thread tensions. Wrong Tension _read is loose. Tighten needle thread tension. Needte thread Needle thread tet_ston (L) tension { R } Upper IDoper Lower looper thread tension thread tens{o_ It Is easier to adjust by using 3 different colors o[...]

  • Page 27

    To select stitch length, turn the dial. The larger the number, the longer the stitch. The stitch length can be adjusted from 1 to 5 mm, (approx. 5/! 28" to 25/128"'). Posit_on "R" is for rolled and narrow hemmings. To increase L decrease scrsw < Standard Setting Position > Top of the machine View trom '*A&quo[...]

  • Page 28

    "i:i:_ Removing the Presse_:Foot iool _if ter 11_ Ratse the needle and presser toot. __ zFoo! holder Lever _ D (_ Press the lever located on the back holder, The presser foot will drop off. of foot f _foove Pin Place the presser foot so that the pin on the foot ties just under the groove of the foot holder. Lower the foot holder and push the[...]

  • Page 29

    Needle clamp screw [he Iett ® (_ Disconnect the machine from the power supply. Raise the needle to its highest position. Then loosen the needle clamp screw for the needle you are going to remove, Refer to page 24 for changing the needle for three-thread serging. 28 Fiat stale to lhe back Needle clamp screws I I Needle slopper -.. / r]l o ,o Ed0o o[...]

  • Page 30

    _To Disengage the Upper: Knife: --b.-'--..b,>_<d_tt! IlO_ _f'C""no Upper _ _ topper p_n knob _ f_ !It v _'_Upper, f Upper knite knob I Upper , knife I '% i Slopper pin J _ ........................... J 1_) Disconnect the machine from the powersupply. (_) Open the looper and side covers. _) Turn the upper knife [...]

  • Page 31

    ® ® Regular Rolled her'nm_ng (ior normal (for rolled hemming Sewing} p_cot edging and narrow hemming) Stamp on the reverse "S .... R" stde ol the plate " Select the needle plate for your sewing need. * Your overlock is shipped with the regular needle plate in place, For your Safety: When you change the needle plate or adjust t[...]

  • Page 32

    L_ght wetght Medium weight Heavy weight Knits NOTE: Type of Fabric Organdy, Georgette, Lawn, Crepe de chine, Limng. Cotton, Linen, Satin, Ordinary tabrlc. Tweed, Coating, Demm, Doeskin, Thick fabric. Kmtted fabrfc Type of Thread Cotton No. 80 "_ Silk No. 80 Synthetic No. 80 Cotton No. 60 Silk No. 50 Synthetic No. 60 _- Cotton No, 50 Silk No. 5[...]

  • Page 33

    < Application > Machine Setting f Roiled Hemming Picot Edging Narrow Hemming Stitch Length {a) Needle Remove the left needle. Needle Plate Rolled hemming needle plate. (Marked R on reverse side.) Refer to page 30 tot changing the needle plate. (R) ..... J 32[...]

  • Page 34

    Thread, Fabric and Range of the Tension Dial (3 Threads) Tension dial settings may vary depending on the type and thickness of fabric and thread being used. Fabric Rolled Hemmtng Picot Edging Narrow Hemming Needle thread Long fiber polyester thread No. 80 _ 100 Upper and lower Woolly nylon, SynthetEc 60 _ _00, Woolly nylon, looper Woolly polyester [...]

  • Page 35

    Adjusting Thread Tension 1. Set the tension dials as shown on page 33, 2. Sew and check the tensions, -- For better result - f _,_,_j_,,>,!_!i_>ii_!_!_ ii _, ii! _i ! ii!)i!i!!i!iii'i ! ! i!!ii iii! _i i iil ! i!i :i_i i:ii_ Rolled Hemming Pull the end of thread chain to the back lightly in the beginning and end of sewing, 4" Picot [...]

  • Page 36

    < Application > /Overedgmg .................. J Thread, Fabric, Range of the Tension and Machine Setting Fabric Medium to Heavy Fabric Needle thread Upper looper thread Lower looper thread Thread " 'I Synthetic : No. 60_ 80 Silk : No. 50_80 Buttonhole twist Lightweight woof yarn Synthetic . No. 60_ 80 Silk : No. 50_80 Standard Setti[...]

  • Page 37

    < App|ication > ........................ J 36 Fabric, Thread and Machine Setting Fabric Thread Needle thread Synthetic No. 60 _ 80 on the rtght Silk No. 50 _ 80 Light to Medium Fabric Upper and lower looper threads Synthetic No, 60 "* 100 Silk No. 50 "_ 100 f- Stitch 2_3 length Machine Setting Needle Regular needle pfate plate (Mark[...]

  • Page 38

    Disconnect the machine from the power supply before cleaning. J Open the looper cover, Remove the waste materials with a lint brush, Needle pla $8_ SCreW (_ Open the looper and side covers, (_) Remove the needles and presser foot. Remove the needle ptate set screw and needle plate. ®® (_ Push the lint around the feed dog to the front by using iin[...]

  • Page 39

    plale Disconnect the machtne from the power supply. Remove the face plate set screw, and remove the face plate. CAUTION! The light bulb will be HOT. Protect your fingers when you handle it, bulb (_ Put the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise. Face plate Set screw @ Attach the face plate, and tighten the face plate set screw. For y[...]

  • Page 40

    Disconnect the machine from the power supply before oiling. Open the looper cover. end apply ,:,:::::,::::: .... Apply a few drops of fine quality sewing machine oil to the parts indicated with arrows. Oiling is recommended once a week in normal use, once in ten hours m continuous use. J 39[...]

  • Page 41

    To Remove: (_) Disconnect the machine trom the power supply. (_ Open the looper and side covers. 1_ Disengage the upper knife. (Refer to page 29.) (_) Remove the hexagon bolt, and remove the upper knife. To Attach: knife insert new upper knife into the groove of knife holder and stopper pro, then tighten the hexagon bolt slightly. 0.5 _tmm {]/3[...]

  • Page 42

    ; _Y:T'_: _ _;=i_?::? :_' :_':::_:::::_:_=: :_ : What to: DO When :_ Condition The fabric is not being fed smoothly. The needle breaks. The thread breaks. Skipped stitches The seam is not sewn neatty, Seam puckering. The machine does not operate, t. The feed dog is packed with lint. 2. The presser foot has been raised, 1. The needle [...]

  • Page 43

    PARTS LIST 3 4 6 @ 7 8 9 10 42 11 12 13 14 15 All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: 1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION 3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked localty, your order wilt be electronically transmitte[...]

  • Page 44

    INDEX A Accessory box .................. 4 C Carrying handle ................... 3 Changing needle .................. 28 Changing the needle plate ............ 30 D Decorative overedglng ............. 35 F Face plate ...................... 3, 38 Foot holder .................... 4, 27 Foot holder set screw ............... 4 Foot control ............[...]

  • Page 45

    Specification of the Machine Item Sewing speed Stitch length (feed amount) Overedge stitch width Specification t,300 r.p.m, maximum 1 _ 5 mm (Ordinary average 3) 3.5 mm or 5.7 mm (3 threads) 5.7 mm (4 threads) Needle bar stroke Presser foot rise Needle Number of threads Machine dimensions Weight 26 mm 5 mm HA-1 SP #11 or #14 3or4 53 '° 10 _2&[...]

  • Page 46

    OVERLOCK Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Overlocko should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or v|sit, The model number of your Overlock will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Over!ock. See page 3 for location, WH[...]