Sears KENMORE 385.128418 manual

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Table of contents for the manual

  • Page 1

    OWNER'S MANUAL SEA/RS SEWING MACHINE MODI[...]

  • Page 2

    SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO, Dear Customer: You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read th_s booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific mstructions are given on threading, tension adiustments, cleaning, oilin[...]

  • Page 3

    TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION 1. SECTION 2. SECTION 3. KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available .............. 2 Locate and Identify the Parts .................. 2_3 Identify the Accessories ........................ 3 PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine ...................... 4_6 • Plug in the Machme and Switch on the [...]

  • Page 4

    : Locate and identify theParts A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general • catalog, Another option , , , buy a Carrying Case , , , then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- where. _obbin Winder Tension Disc Upper Thread Gu_de Top Thread Tension Control Face Cover Plate Need le [...]

  • Page 5

    Thread Spool Pins Clutch Knob Hand W heel L_ght end Power Switch Plug Connector FOOt Control Top Cover Thread Guide Presser Foot Lever Free Arm Nomenclature Plate Thread Gupde Thread Guide Needle Clamp Accessory box " _'_.,,,,,Lint brush Bobbin Buttonhole opener (_Large screw driver Af# 9 Straight stitch foot footSatm stitch /_[...]

  • Page 6

    • Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Power switch Power supply Plug supply NOTE: 1. 2. 3. Machine socket Machine plug Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch is OFF, Check your outlet to be sure )t isa 110to 120 Volt AC outlet. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong machine socket, as shown, It will [...]

  • Page 7

    Setting Spool Pins Spool pin tell Spool Pins are packed in accessory box. Screw thread spool pins in pface securely with a screw driver, Position spool pin felts as shown in iflustra- tion. Adjust the Presser Foot Lever High posHion ..~ pOSitiOn ,/ Presser toot _--_'_; lever Normal up High posilion The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers yo[...]

  • Page 8

    ¸, _, i_Z_':i_!i_i_!_:: _i_y'_'_,i'_}_i_:_;!,:_!_.:_i_::j_:_ _<_?_'_:AI_'!_;_I!I_!_ ?_:;',!<_:_,_L _ * Free-Arm Sewing (Continued) Your sewing machine can do free arm sewing. This feature makes sewing easy for: $ * bar tacking to reinforce pockets, belt foops and waistline on ready- made or homemade garment[...]

  • Page 9

    The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine. You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively. = Change the Presser Foot Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. Consult the practical Stitch Chart on pages 20 _ 22 and the detailed directions for sewing with the various presser feet. 0 J To chan[...]

  • Page 10

    Presser Foot Types (Continued} Buttonhole Guide Foot r Buttonhole guide _'oot Use this foot for buttonholes. It is marked to measure your buttonholes accurately, Uses: Buttonhole making {see p.3__55) Zipper Foot f Zipper foot This foot can be set to sew on each side of your zipper. The edges of the foot guide the zipper and keep the seam strai[...]

  • Page 11

    Your choice of needle and thread depends onthe fabric youare sewing. tnyour needle case, you will findthe following color-coded needles: Blue (1 1) ........... forstretch fabrics Orange (11) ......... for lightweight fabrics Red (14) ........... for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics Purple (16) ....... for medium-heavy weight and decorative top[...]

  • Page 12

    Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart NEEDLE FABRIC SIZE AND COLOR Lightweight: Batrste= Dimity, Chiffon. Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta. Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton B_ends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker. Satm. Knits. Vinyl Suitings. Linen, Wool Crepe. Leather Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Denim[...]

  • Page 13

    :: Prepare the Bobbin: = To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine = Wind the Bobbin Release clutch by turning clutch knob toward you. Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the left, Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover. Raise needle to its highest position by rotating hand w[...]

  • Page 14

    ,_ i!P_are ith_ ¸ gob_ niliCo.ti._ed _ i_! __, !_i!i;!i:_!_i:_i;i_ :; _ <': _:," _ _i!_;i !:_ i _ :!i!;:_:_:i _ :_:- • i i _'!'i i _I ! i: : ! :: _ x: ; Wind the Bobbin (Continued) 7 Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown. Pull end of thread through bobbin as shown. hole in Place bobbin onto bob[...]

  • Page 15

    Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case Place bobbin in bobbin case making sure thread leeds clock- wlse and is coming from bobbin as shown. Pull thread through slot of case as shown, Pull .......... J thread under tension spring and through the opening as shown above, " r Holding latch open, position case into shuttle and re|ease latch. Case s[...]

  • Page 16

    Thread Your Needle @ The numbered steps below follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted lines show places where the thread loops end then is pulled tight. J 1, Draw thread through thread guide. Raise thread take-up ]ever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot lever, Place spool on spool pin as shown, with[...]

  • Page 17

    Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ® 5. Draw thread down and into thread guide, 6. Pul! the thread to the left and slip it through the thread guide, 7. Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide. 8, Thread needle from front to back, NOTE: You may want to cut the end of the thread with sharp smssors for eas_er needle threading, Raise presser foot [...]

  • Page 18

    Top side of fabric thread thread Setting mark koose__.% Tighten For Straight Stitch The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even, Choose the Correct [...]

  • Page 19

    For Zigzag Stitch In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top tension. Top tension Top tension Tdo Tight Too Loose Top sJde of Fabric Top s_de of Fabric Just Right To[...]

  • Page 20

    Setting mark The stitch selector control not only determines the stitch you select, but also regulates the stitch width for regular zigzag and rick rack stretch stitches. The different types of stitches are designated by color. Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches are orange. Stretch Stitches are gold. Buttonhole Settings are blue. NOTE: To avoid [...]

  • Page 21

    Now that you are familiar withthecontrols on yourmachine and with the accessories provided forthe machine, youare ready to start to sew withyour new Kenmore sewing machine_ Below are some good habits to follow each t_me you sitdown to sew; 1. Inspect theneedle. It should bestraight, properly set and sharp on the point. _t should be the correct size[...]

  • Page 22

    Stitch STRAIGHT I t 1 I I I i l STRAIGHT STRETCH ZIGZAG RICK-RACK STR ETCH THREE-STEP ZIGZAG Stitch Other Selector Foot Attach. Straight Darning (_ _ Zigzag prate Straight Zigzag Zigzag Zigzag Zigzag lit Ill ltt Needle Check Chert Check Chart Check Chert Check Chert Check Chart Thread Tension 2~6 2_6 2~5 1_4 1_4 Stitch Length 6~t2 Uses Refer to Pag[...]

  • Page 23

    Stitch Stitch Selector SMOCKING STITCH xJ_ BLIND HEM STITCH BLIND HEM STITCH (STRETCH) ! OVERCAST STRETCH <, SHELL STITCH ........ i ..... Zigzag Other Needle Thread Stitch Uses Refer to Page Foot Attach. Tension Length Zigzag Check 1 _ 4 Chart Check Chart Check Chart Check Chart Check Chart 1 _4 8~24 I ................. 1 _4 8~24 t_4 S T L 3 _ [...]

  • Page 24

    Stitch Stitch Foot Selector SERGING BOX STITCHING ELASTIC STRETCH !/ > ) k Zigzag Zigzag > Zigzag > Buttonhole Needle Blue (11) Satin Check Chart Thread Stitch Tension Length 1_4 S T L 1 -- 4 24 ,[] ,[] E]_ BUTTONHOLE SATIN STITCH Other Attach. Use paper underneath Check Chart Check Chart Check Chart !~4 S T L 1 _ 5 Blue Zone I _ 4 Blue Zo[...]

  • Page 25

    = Straight Stitch Set the Machine Top thread [enslon control 2 to 6 Straight toot Stitch length controf 6 to 12 Zigzag foot 1, 2. 3. 4. 5. 6, ! Raise the presser foot. Raise the needle to its highest position. Place the edge of the fabric next to a stitching guide line on the needle plate (5/8" is most common). Draw the threads towards the bac[...]

  • Page 26

    • Use the Darning Plate Sometimes when you sew, you want to control the fabr=c youse_f. The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric. To Put on the Darning Plate: NOTE: The rectangular holes in the Darning Plate match the holes in the needle plate. In the darning plate, these holes are slightly to the left of center[...]

  • Page 27

    Darning: Set the Machine Stich selector @ Top thread tension Stitch length control 'i to 4 Any number (not necessary to adjust) footNO presser Darning plate Here's How 2_ 3. 4. 5. 6. NOTE: Put the darning plate on the needle plate (see p.24). Remove presser foot, stretch fabric between embroidery hoops with hole centered. Draw the bobbin [...]

  • Page 28

    Basic Zigzag Top thread tension control 2 to 5 SettheMachine Stitch selector Stitch _ength 6 to 24 The Stitch and Its Uses The zigzag stitch is one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine. It can be a utility stitch for sewing buttons, buttonhofes, hem- ming, overcasting, mending and darn- ing, It can also be used to decorate[...]

  • Page 29

    Satin Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector I Top thread tension control 1 to 4 Stitch tength Blue zo n e <::_ The Stitch and Its Uses The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorative stitch, but it can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- ample, blankets, linens, tabrecloths and napkins). The Satin stitch is especially attract[...]

  • Page 30

    Applique Set thaMachine [ Stitch se{ector Top thread tension control I to 4 Satin st{tch toot Stitch length Blue Zone'C_to 24 Baste {or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique. When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the[...]

  • Page 31

    Sew a Button Set _he Machine Sli"_eh selector I 2" Top thread _ens}on Stitch length control ! to 4 Any number (not necessary to adjust) ! Zigzag foot _ Darning #fate Use the darmng plate for button sewing (see p.24), 1. Set the pattern selector at " _ "', 2. A_ign the both holes of the button with the slot of the foot and p[...]

  • Page 32

    = Overcasting Stitch Set the Machine Stitch selector Stitch length Top thread tension 12 to 24 Zigzag foot The Stitch and its Uses This zigzag variation is very useful in garment construction and in finishing raw edges of any sewing project. Helpful Hints Start overcasting about 1/8" inside the raw corner of your seam. If you start right at th[...]

  • Page 33

    t_i _-:': _: -¸ -,'_: L- Zigzag Stitches (Continued) Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch selector Stitch {ength Top thread tension Blue Zone<::r'_ta 24 control I to _4 Zigzag toot J The Stitch and Its Uses The three-step zigzag is a combination zigzag and straight stitch. You may use the three-step zigzag everywhere you woul[...]

  • Page 34

    = Overcast Stretch Stitching Sat the Machine St=tch selector Stitch length Top thread tension _L control I to 4 __,x ° ° Zigzag _oot The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast finish, The seam is formed and finished in one operation, It can be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other garments [...]

  • Page 35

    Blind Hemming Set the Machine ?q Top thread tension control _ to 4 Stitch length 8 to 24 _Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension Contro_ "i [o 4 Stitch length Heavy Weight _-. Fabric _ _ ........ ._ There are two blind hem stitches on your machine. The regular blind hem is used for woven fabrics. The stretch blind hem Is wid[...]

  • Page 36

    Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control I to 4 Stitch length 24 v Lace adds a fanclfu], feminine touch to blouses and lingerie, Table linens and pillows become more elegant when trimmed with lace. Turn raw edge of fabric under at least 1/2" Place face underneath and top- stitch using stretch bEind hem stitch. Trim excess fab[...]

  • Page 37

    Buttonholes Set the Machine tE3 4 2[-J_ Stitch length Blue Zone _::_ Top _hread tension //_ _. _ comrol "_ to 5 ._ButtOnhole guide foot Adjusting the Stitch Density Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length dial. 1, For les[...]

  • Page 38

    B tto. Co.ti.. d 4. a. Set the stitch selector at _:_, b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches. c, Stop sewing at the right stitch. 5. a. Set the stitch selector at [_3 b, Sew until you reach the back of the buttonhole. c, Stop sewing at the right stitch, 6. a. Set the stitch selector at 2_::_, b. Sew 4 to 6 stitches, c. Stop sewing at the left stitch, 7. Remove th[...]

  • Page 39

    Sew in a ZiPper Sat the Machine Stitch setec_or Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Zipper toot Stitch _ength 12 open_ng ot fabric t 18"} Top edge o_ fabric Fabric Preparation: To Sew: Put the right sides of the fabric to- 1. gether and sew to the end of the zip- per opening, Use the reverse to lock 2. the stitches. Sew the zipper opening with s[...]

  • Page 40

    8. Open thezipper. 10. Close the zipper and turn the 9. Lower the presser foot and stitch fabric right side up. the rest of the seam. INVISIBLE ZIPPER AND CORDING INVISIBLE ZIPPER Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through the center hole of the foot and one groove of the foot _s r_ding on the teeth of the zEpper as shown. Follow the z_pper ma[...]

  • Page 41

    _i Sheii Stitching Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension contro{ 3 to 9 Zigzag foot Stitch lenglh 12 to 24 The Stitch and Its Uses The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a blind hem over folded fabric. Several rows of shell stitching are called shell tucks. Shell stitching can be used to finish hems, sleeve and neck openings, Shell tucki[...]

  • Page 42

    Set the Machine Stitch selector Top thread tension control "i _o 4 Zigzag foot Choose this stitch to attach elastic to garments, 1. Mark the elastic into quarters and match these to the center front, center back and side seams. 2. Place the middle of the elastic under the center of the presser foot and stitch into place, making sure the elasti[...]

  • Page 43

    W t :Do PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Irregular Stitches Breaking Needle Bunching of Thread Puckering incorrect size needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin, Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate. Pulling fabric. Incorrect size needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose [...]

  • Page 44

    PROBLEM Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread PROBABLE CAUSE Incorrect size needle. Certain knits and synthetics, Bent or blunt needle, incorrect setting of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Starting to stitch too fast. Improper threading. Tight upper thread tension, Incorrect size needle. Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs on shuttle. Nicks o[...]

  • Page 45

    _ t Io Unplug the machine and open the face cover. CAUTION! The light bulb will be HOT. Protect your fingers when you handle it. 2. Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise to remove it. 3. Put the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise. To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the essential part[...]

  • Page 46

    = Clean the Shuttle Race ThJs area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area about every three months. Center pm et the shuttle ever case To Clean the Shuttle Area: 1. Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case. 2. Push shuttle race levers aside. Lift shuttle race cover and [...]

  • Page 47

    =ii'ioiii ii G M :i iiiiiiiii ¸¸ Oil the machine in all areas shown on the next two pages at least once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly, If you use the machine frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it before sewing[...]

  • Page 48

    Oil the Underside t B c __ J Oil the underside at least once a year. !, iI¸¸¸ _ ii_i_iiiii _, i _ _'_!,_i_i_iil Tilt machine head back and remove bottom covers. Oil points indicated on underside of machine. To remove bottom covers, remove screws (A), (B) and (C) as shown. 46[...]

  • Page 49

    PARTS LIST 1 2 7 8 9 t4 15 16 10 11 !7 12 13 !8 19 20 9 21 22 23 Aii parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. store or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: 1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION 3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your ord[...]

  • Page 50

    INDEX A Appliqueing ................... 20, 28 B Bar tacking ................... 20, 28 Base ............................ 2 Basic zigzag .................. 20, 26 Blind hemming ................. 21, 33 Bobbin .................... 11_13,47 Bobbin case .............. 11, t3, 44,47 Bobbin thread .................. 15_16 Bobbin winding ............... [...]

  • Page 51

    WARRANTY FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD For 25 years from the date of purchase. Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear # _- in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head. {) _: FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE For two vears from the date of purchase.[...]

  • Page 52

    SEWING MACHINE Now that you have or service, _imply contact y you call or visit. The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sewing Machine. See page 3 for location. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVETHE FOLLOWtNG iNFORMATiON: *MODEL NUMBER*NAME OF iTEM *PART DESCRIPTION If the parts you[...]