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Nissan VQ35DE manual

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Table of contents for the manual

  • Page 1

    Forced Induction Racing VQ35DE Install Kit Instructions 2002+ Nissan SE-R Spec-V (W/6spd) Revised Date: 2/16/06 Thank you for purchasing our VQ35D E install kit. We have spent numerous hours, designing, and perfecting this ki t, over the past 8 months. The end result, is a user-fri endly, easy to work with kit, that will allow you to “bolt-in” [...]

  • Page 2

    **BEFORE YOUR BEGIN** This kit was design with simplicity in mind. Installing the VQ drive- train will be fairly straight-forward. However, it will require moderate automotive knowledge, and the right t ools to complete the job. If your are unsure about the installation, PLEASE, bring your vehicle to a qualified automotive shop to comple te your in[...]

  • Page 3

    (1) 1/2” bolt (6” long) 2 washers/1 lock nut (2) 1/2” bolts (5” long) 4 washers/1 lock nut (1) M10 x 1.75 lock nut and 1 washer If you have purchased a full kit with the VQ35DE bell-housing, please take the time to make sure the following is installed: (1) Throw out bearing pivot ball (1) Input shaft seal (1) Passenger side axle seal[...]

  • Page 4

    Once you have verified the contents of y our kit, it’s time to move on to the installation. We will begin, with the assump tion that you have removed your QR25DE and transmission. We will also assume that you have swapped over your bell-hous ing on your transmission, or, you have purchased a 6 speed Maxima transmi ssion. If you are attempting to [...]

  • Page 5

    Factory Service Manual. If you need the manual for this particular application, it will be saved in a separate folder on this installation CD. Here is a picture, showing the difference between the QR and VQ 6 speed bell-housings: The VQ bell-housing is shown on the left side, wi th the QR internals already installed. The old QR bell-ho using is sho[...]

  • Page 6

    use of a high quality clutch alignment tool. This will make the next step a lot easier. Grab a buddy, and have him/her help you lift the transmission up a few inches. Slide the input shaft into the clutch disc splines. The transmission should slide onto the tw o dowel pins that line it up perfectly with the engine block. Thread in the 17mm and 14mm[...]

  • Page 7

    A. Tighten this nut/bolt down LAST. Torque to 30-35ft lbs B. Tighten these bolts into the block by hand, and just snug them for now. We will torque them later. Don’t worry about the C-shims right now, either. C. This bolt hole is no longer used Once you have completed the rear m ount/brackets, it’s time to move on to the front brackets. The fro[...]

  • Page 8

    Once you have completed that ta sk, you should in stall the passenger- side engine mount bracket and adaptor. You should also take the time to bolt your QR passen ger side engine mount to the VQ mount/adaptor bracket. Tighten it a ll up while the engine is still OUT OF THE CAR. This will make yo ur life MUCH easier. Trust me.. ☺ It should look so[...]

  • Page 9

    needed. Torque the stud/nut a nd bolt/lock washer on the holes marked “B” to 45ft lbs. Remember, it is VERY important that you tighten those bolts in the sequence listed above. Otherw ise, you will not be able to tighten the 17mm VQ engine bracket that is behind the 3/8” bolt for the QR mount! Once you have finished that, you are ready to ins[...]

  • Page 10

    A & B- Add/Remove shims from between the QR engine mount and the adaptor plate, as needed to get your engine as level as possible. Remember, start with 2-3. That should get you very close. You may also have to use a few washers on the under- side of the stud on the hole marked “B”, as the stud is a decent length. There should be plenty of w[...]

  • Page 11

    Listed above, is where you should in sert your 14mm bolt to hold the transmission bracket into the mount. Once you’ve got your engine in place, it’s time to modify and install the cross-member/front and rear mounts. Using your grinder/dust mask/eye pro tection/ear plugs, grind the posts on the rear QR engine mount, so that it fits into the rear[...]

  • Page 12

    Once you get the correct clearance, you will need to drill out the front engine mount to fit the larger, 1/2” diameter bolt. Using the corresponding drill bit, drill the front mount hole so that the 1/2” bolt slides in and fits snug. The front mount is shown in the above picture at the top. After modifying the mounts, you can now install the cr[...]

  • Page 13

    you get the rear mount in, pivot the front mount adaptor so that it lines up with the QR engine mount isolator. You may have to use the jack to pivot the engine/transmission in order to get the 1/2” bolt into the mount. The fit will be very snug. On ce you get the bolt in, place your washer/lock-nut on the bolt to hold it in place. Using your jac[...]

  • Page 14

    This one is pretty easy… There’s a second set of holes that are closer towards the block. You will use those, instead of the original holes. Torque the 1/2” bolt/nut to 55ft lbs. The last step in the mechanical aspect of this install, is to install the axles. The driver’s side axle, w ill bolt right in. No modification required. For the pas[...]

  • Page 15

    install depth into the transmission. Torque the 12mm bolts to 25ft lbs, and use Red Loc-Tite on the threads ! After tightening the 12mm bolts down, go back, and torque th e engine mount adaptor bolts in the block to 35-40ft lbs. I recomm end using loctite on those as well. Visually inspect the axle, and make sure that it’s sitting flush/perpendic[...]

  • Page 16

    You will only be able to use those 2 bo lts, but it will hold up just fine. Our test car has been runni ng for almost 6 months with this setup. If you drill the holes slightly larger, y ou can line the pulle y up better, so that you can use 6 rib belt, instead of 5 rib. Take your time, and line it up, and you will be fine. Tight en those 14mm bolts[...]

  • Page 17

    the QR’s factory fan relay. From t here, you can put 12 volts switched to the factory relay, and just run the fans constantly. This will help keep things cool under the hood. The wiring is a pain in the butt.. no way around it. You will end up using sections of your QR harness along with the donor VQ harness. Take your time, and if you need diagr[...]

  • Page 18

    Other than that.. good luck with y our swap, and if you have any questions, feel free to contact me at TravisFIR@gmail.com or 985- 713-1542 from 9am to 5pm Central Time. You can reach me after- hours on the forums ( www.b15sentra.net www.thevboard.com ) Be safe, and enjoy your newly found power! ☺[...]