Kenmore 385 manual

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Table of contents for the manual

  • Page 1

    OWNER'S MANUAL : SEWING MACHINE MODEL 385. 1584180 : :: :: :: i::::! :::ii::_:i!:::::::::!_!:i::!:::i _I:I ii:!:i:!i_:!_:!i:i::i_[...]

  • Page 2

    SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. Dear Customer: You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine. Specific instructions are glven on threading, tension adiustments0 cleaning, oiti[...]

  • Page 3

    TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION SECTION SECTION I. KNOW YOUR MACHINE A Portable case or Cabinet is Available ............. 2 Locate and Identify the parts .................. 2_3 Indentify the Accessories .......................... 4 2, PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING Set Up the Machine ......................... 5_9 o Plut in the machine and Switch on the[...]

  • Page 4

    A fuN-line of sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general catalog. Another option • , _ buy a Carrying Case . _ , then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- where. J J : :: locate: anaiiaentify: ttle Parts:: i Upper Thread Guide Take-up Lever Top Thread Tension Control Face Cover Piate Thread Cu[...]

  • Page 5

    Arm Cover Plate Hand Wheel Push*Pull Clutch Stitch Selector /_ Stretch Stitch Adiuster .t .JSll L_ght and . j Power Sw_tch _-, Plug Connector Carrying Handle / i !/ Free Arm -., Nomenclature Plate Presser Foot ,. Snap-on Button Foot Control[...]

  • Page 6

    Bobbin Buttonhole opener Needle set Lint brush Darning plate Large screw driver Small screw drwer J Spool pin teft Zipper foot Stra3ght stitch foot --% Sliding /" buttonhole toot /[...]

  • Page 7

    Set Up the Machine Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power Power supply plug Power swlIch NOTE. PIug connector Machine plug Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power sw_tch is OFF I, Check your outlet to be sureitis a 110to !20 Volt AC outlet. 2, Insert the machine plug into the three-prong outlet, as shown. It will only [...]

  • Page 8

    SetUp the MaChine:i :I (Continued) = Set the Pressure Dial f Pressure control dial Setting mark Groove J The pressure control dial is located inside the face cover plate. Set the dial aligning the setting marl{ on the dial with the groove as follows. 3 ..... most sewing 2 ..... applique and Cut-Outwork 1 ..... basting, sewing chiffon, lace, organdy[...]

  • Page 9

    o Setting Spool Pins Spool pln felt-_._O Spool pin The spool pins are used for holding the spools of thread in order to feed thread to the machine. To use, pull up the spool pros. Place the spool felt on the pros. Push down for storage. o Adjust the Presser Foot Lever f Normal up _-- pos_llon l Hi l, i ( positron "'- Presser toot lever T[...]

  • Page 10

    = Accessory Storage Box The lid of the accessory storage box lifts open toward you, Sewing accessories are conveniently located m the box, 8 o Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table To remove: To Remove the Extension TabLe (for free-arm sewing) 1. 2_ Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown. Pull gently toward you, The exte[...]

  • Page 11

    * Stitching sleeves, wmstbands, pant or any circular garment area. J _egs, Darning socks or mending knees, e_bows, or areas of wear in children's clothes. * Sawing buttons on sleeves, waistbands, etc.[...]

  • Page 12

    __o : c:,:.::_::_:-i _:/ :::: ::=,,--:-:::::!_,:_:;:_>: ¸, .::_:-: :_ _ :_: :_:. ;i:: i Know What the Presser Feet Will Do o Check Your Presser Foot The Presser feet are an important feature of this machine, You need to know what each foot does in order to use them effectively. Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder, Each presser f[...]

  • Page 13

    To Snap On the Presser Foot: t. Place the presser foot so the hori- zontal pin on the foot lies iust under the groove of the foot holder, 2. Lower the presser foot holder to lock the presser foot in place. NOTE: If you do not hear the presser foot snap m place, press down on the presser foot holder firmly until you hear the snap. • Presser Foot T[...]

  • Page 14

    _/: KnowWilatthe Preset Feet Will: Do (Continued) o Presser Foot Types (Continued) Sliding ButtonhoJe Foot Sliding buttonhole toot _ J Use this foot for buttonholes of built in system, It is marked to measure your buttonholes accurately. Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 40). i!ii ¸ i l ili iii!i!i!il !iiiii !!iiiiiiiiiiiiii ¸,¸ iilill ii!ilili![...]

  • Page 15

    _,_----dfm===_ ,M--, _t ...... Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing. In your needle case, you will find the following color-coded needles: Blue {11) .......... for stretch fabrics for lightweight fabrics for medium or medium-heavy weight tabrics for medium-heavy weight and decorative topstitchmg on these fabrics (Th[...]

  • Page 16

    o Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart FABRIC Lightwmght: NEEDLE SIZE AND COLOR Batiste0 Dimttyo Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace. Organza, Crepe, Taffeta° Voile, Organdy Medium Weight: Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percate, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Kmts. Vinyl Su_tmgs= Lmen, Wool Crepe, Leather Medium Heavy Weight: Corduroy, Demm_[...]

  • Page 17

    Prepare the Bobbin o To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine !. Gently push down on the bobbin cover plate and slide it towards you. 2. Set aside. 3. Lift out the bobbin, as shown. o Wind the Bobbin Bobbin winding spindle Clutch 1. Put your spool of thread onto spool pin, with the thread winding in the direction sh own. 2. Pull the clutch away from t[...]

  • Page 18

    = Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder f _ F ® ........................ J 1, Put the bobbin into the bobbin holder so that the thread feeds counter-cfockwJse (left). ® 2. Pu_l about 4 inches of thread toward you through the tension slot _. "x F ® 3. Then pull the thread clockwise toward the back of the machine through the slot 4. Slide [...]

  • Page 19

    Prepare Your Top Thread Thread Your Needle The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations. Dotted lines show places where the thread loops and then ts pulled tight. f Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise presser foot tever. Place spool on spool pln as shown, w_th thread coming from th[...]

  • Page 20

    : ii: :iPr_p_ _ou_::TOp Th:readii_(cOntinued ): = Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread f ,, J 1. Rinse presser foot _ever. Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete turn. ,j 2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling top th read, 3. J Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inches of th[...]

  • Page 21

    Adjust the Top Thread Tens=on Top side ol labrlc ll_read " _w- Setting mark Tighlen For Straight Stitch The _deal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. If you look at the stttch, front and back, you wilt notice that there are no gaps, that each stttch is smooth and [...]

  • Page 22

    For Zigzag Stitch In the correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of fabric and the top threads will show siightly on the bottom side. See below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust your top tensi on. Top tension Too Tight Top stde of Fabric Bottom side of Fabric Too Tigh t: -- Corner ot each z[...]

  • Page 23

    Stitch Width Control V Widtl_ .........J The stitch width control regulates the width of the stitch you select. The higher the number, the wider the stitch. Stitch Length Control V Length Stretch SIIlch ,,) The stitch length control regulates the length of stitch, and also has a stretch stitches setting. The higher the number, the longer the stitch[...]

  • Page 24

    Reverse ',,,, j To reverse stitch, hold down this con- trol during sewing. Release to sew forward again. _: Starting To Sewii: Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habrts to follow ea[...]

  • Page 25

    Practical Stitch Chart Thread Stitch Stitch Stitch Needle Tension Length Width Uses Orange 0 Regular searms, zippers, topstitching, darmng, Zone etc. STRAIGHT 1 I I I J STRAIGHT STR ETCH ZIGZAG RICK*RACK STRETCH BLIND HEM STITCH Stitch Selection Foot and Other Attach. Stra=ght I I 1 t IIi III III Ul DarMng Zipper p_ate foot Strmght Zigzag Check Cha[...]

  • Page 26

    Stitch Stitch I .... Stitch Thread Length Width i uses tterer to t_age Stitch Selection Needle Tension OVERCAST STRETCH THREE-STEP ZIGZAG SMOCKING STITCH SHELL STITCH SERGING < p 4 i d t I Foot and Other Attach, Zigzag % Zigzag % Check Chart on p. 14 Check Chart on p. L4 2_6 2_6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 0.5_ 1 3_5 Use for swlmwear0 ski pan[...]

  • Page 27

    Stitch Stitch Selection BOX STITCHING ELASTIC STR ETC H / FAGOTING STRETCH PATCHING ( <> <> (q <> TWO-POINT SHELL ST| TCH IN G L> L> r_> C> Foot end Other Attach, Needle Zigzag Check Chart (_ on p. 14 Zigzag Check Chart on p. 1_4 % Zigzag Check Chart on p. 14 % Zigzag Check Chart on p. 14 % Check Chart on p. 14 Zigzag[...]

  • Page 28

    : iP'ractic_i:_s_itc_Cha_i:: iContinued): i ; Stitch HERRING BONE STRETCH / BUTTONHOLE SATIN STITCH Stitch Selection Foot and OtherAttach, Zigzag D Thread Stitch Stitch Needle Tension Length Width 2-6 3_5 Check Chart on p. 14 Check Chart on p, 1_4 2~6 Yellow Stretch Stitch Position 3~5 Uses Refer to Page Use as hemming stitch for blankets, ta[...]

  • Page 29

    Straight Stitches o Straight Stitch f Sat the Machine Stitch w=dth control 0 Top thread tens|on control 2 to 6 H: Straight foot NOTE: Stitch length control orange zone Stretch Stitch Best sewmg results are obtained with the straight stitct! foot, but the zigzag foot wilt also provide acceptable results. / Before sewing with the straight stitch foot[...]

  • Page 30

    '_;_ :i':i_ :_ ii_!::!:!:i:i_;;:;:ii_::;:!i_i:i:!_:_!, :!: i iiii:i:_,_;_: _/i _::: :,i:x _ !_!_!' ::!W • = Use the Darning Plate Darning pfate J Sometimes when you sew, you want to contro] the fabric yourself. The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs so that they do not touch the fabric. To Put on the Darning Plate: NOTE. The rect[...]

  • Page 31

    Darning Straight Stretch Top thread tansloR control 2 to6 No presser toot S_t the Machine Stitch w_dth control 0 ] 2 3 4 Darning plate Stitch length control any number (not necessary to adjust) 2 Stretch Stitch Here's How 1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate (see page 2__88). 2. Remove presser foot and foot holder (see page 1__00), str[...]

  • Page 32

    Basic Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch wtdth control i to 5 't 234 Top thread tension Stitch length control 3 to 8 control orange Zone 2 Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot .............. J The Stitch and its Uses The zigzag stttch _s one of the most common and most versatile stitches on your machine. It can be a utility stitch for sewing buttons, butt[...]

  • Page 33

    Satin Stitch Set the Machine Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch width contro! 2 to 5 i 2 3 . @ Stitch length control 0.5 to 1 Stretch Stitch F: Satin stitch toot Pressure dial: I or The Stitch and Its Uses The Satin stitch is a versatile and often used decorat=ve stitch, but It can also be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex- ample, blankets,[...]

  • Page 34

    Stitch width Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0.5 to t 2 Stretch Stitch F_ Satin stitch foot Pressure dial: 2 Baste {or fuse with _ron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique. When sewing corners, lower the needle down into t[...]

  • Page 35

    Monogramming Set the Machine Stitcll width control 5 i 2 34 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 F' Satin stitch toot Stitch length control 0,5 to "i 4 Stretch Stitch Here's How 1. Set the same as satin stitch, 2. Back the fabric with paper or mterfacing. 3. Draw the letters on the fabric with tailor's chalk. 4. Satin stitch, adjus[...]

  • Page 36

    o Sew a Button Set the Machine Top thread tenston control 2 to 6 Stitch width control Must be adiu sted _ 2 3 4 Stitch length control Any number {not necessary to adiust ) 4 Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag toot Darning pta Use the darning plate for button sewmg (see page 28). t. 21 3. Match the center of the button holes to the center of the slot on the p[...]

  • Page 37

    Overcasting Stitch Set the Machine Top thread tension control 3 to 8 A: Zigzag toot Stitch wrdth control 3 to 5 I234 @ Stitch length control orange zone Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses Thts z_gzag variation is very useful m garment construction and =n finishing raw edges ot any sewing project. k,, ¸ Helpful Hints Start overcasting about 1/8[...]

  • Page 38

    o Three-Step Zigzag Set the Machine Stitch width control 5 "1234 Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control 0.5 to 'l Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag foot _ ....... J The Stitch and Its Uses The three-step zigzag is a combination ztgzag and straight stitch. You may use the three-step zigzag everywhere you would use the basic zigzag [...]

  • Page 39

    o Overcast Stretch Stitching f Set the Machine Top thread tension control 2 to 6 A; Zigzag toot Stitch width control 3 to 5 -23 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch pos_tlon 2 Stretch Stitch % ................................... J The Stitch and Its Uses This stitch can be used for sewing a seam with an overcast fimsh. The seam ts formed and[...]

  • Page 40

    Set the Machine Stitch w_dth contro! 2 to 3 _ 2 3 4 Top thread tension contro_ 2 to 6 A: Zigzag foot Stitch length control orange zone 2 Stretch Stitch L_ght Weight Fabric Heavy Weight Fabric 1/4" 1/4" 1, Finish the raw edge of your hem any way you desire. (see overcasting page 3.5). 2. Measure, turn up your hem and pin. NOTE. For light w[...]

  • Page 41

    Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Set the Machine A: Zigzag toot Stitch width control 2 to 3 _2 3 4 Stitch length control 'l Stretch Stitch I ::_ : :::; ============================ _i_:!_:_!i!ii_i!ii_!iiil;!iiii_i_i_!_'_!i i_iill ili i :il _ili_!iiiii!!ii!_iiii!ii_!_'!'_ _ i:i !ili! ,J Lace adds a fanciful, feminine touch to bl[...]

  • Page 42

    Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 llfl I 141 i III i g7 _ Stitch length control Blue zone F:_ 2 Top thread tension 0 L_'_i4 control 2 to 6 Stretch Stitch Sliding buttonhole loot Adjusting the Stitch Density Depending upon your fabric or your own preference m buttonholes, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue but[...]

  • Page 43

    4, a, Set the stitch selector at . b. Sew 4 to 6 stMtches, c. Stop sewing at the right stitch. F! 5. a, Set the stitch selector at I_1 b, Sew untilyou reach the back of the buttonhole. c. Stop sewing at the right stitch. t_ 6. a, Set the stitch selector at 1,1 b, Sew 4 to 6 stttches. c. Stop sewing at the left stitch. 7_ Remove the fabric and cut t[...]

  • Page 44

    Fabric Preparation: Put the top sides of the fabric together and sew to the end of the zipper opening. Use the reverse to lock the stitches. Sew the zipper opening with stitch length at "4" and top thread tension at "3". Top side o! fabric i parting Top edge of fabric The pin on the iett hand side Set the Machine Top thread tens[...]

  • Page 45

    8. Open the z_pper. 9. Lower the presser toot and stitch the rest of the seam. offabric ::::: i':: 10. Close the zipper and turn the fabric top side up, 11. Remove the zipper foot and attach the presser bar to the left pins on the zipper foot, 12. Stitch across and below the bot- tom of the zipper, I3. Turn the corner and continue to guide the[...]

  • Page 46

    Set the Machine Stitch width Top thread tension control 4 to 9 Stitch length control orange ,zone F_ Satin stitch foot Stretch Stitch The Stitch and Its Uses The Shell Stitch is formed by sewing a blind hem over folded fabric. Several rows of shell stitching are called shell tucks. Shell stitching can be used to finish hems, sleeve and neck opening[...]

  • Page 47

    Smocking Stretch Patching N:TNEi:sTI Sgt the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 i 2 3, I Top thread tension control 2 to 6 Stitch length control yellow stretch stitch positton 4 Stretch Stitch ¢- -. With the stttch length at "'4", sew strmght stitching lines 3/8" apart across the area to be smocked. Knot the threads along one [...]

  • Page 48

    ::: Eagoting Stitch !,:: Set the Machine Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch width control 5 i 2 3_ Stitch length control 0,5 to 2 4 Stretch Stitch A: Zigzag toot The Stitch and Its Uses J Use this stitch to join two pieces of fabric to create an open work appearance and add design interest, Here's How !, Fold under each fabric edge 5/8&q[...]

  • Page 49

    Etastic Stretch Stitch Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch length controt yellow stretch stitch postflOl] A: Zigzag toot Stretch Stitch Box Stitching Set the Machine Stitch width control 3 to 5 1 2 3_ Top thread tension control 3 to 8 Stitch length control orange A: Zigzag toot Stretch Stitch Use thi[...]

  • Page 50

    PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Irregular Stitches Breaking Needle Bunching of Thread Puckering Incorrect skze needle. Improper threading. Loose upper thread tension. Pulling fabric. Loose presser foot. Unevenly wound bobbin. Nicks or burrs at hote of needle plate, Pulling fabric. Incorrect s_ze needle. Incorrect setting of needle. Loose presser [...]

  • Page 51

    PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE CORRECTION Skipping Stitches Breaking Upper Thread Breaking Bobbin Thread Fabric not Mowng Incorrect s_ze needle, Bent or blunt needle, tncorrec[ settmg of needle. Tight upper thread tension. Starting to stitch too fast. lmproper threading. Tight upper thread tension. incorrect size needle. Sharp eye in needle. Nicks or burrs[...]

  • Page 52

    ! i i I Unplug the machine and open the face cover. CAUTI 0 N ! The light bulb will be HOT. Protect your fingers when you handle it. 2. Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise to remove ft. 3. Put the new bulb in by pushing _t up and turning tt clockwise. ::::Clean the:Bobbin: Holder i:: ;< ::: :::: ': i::::: :: •: : : To ins[...]

  • Page 53

    Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs Oiling the Machine :OR ,YOU R: MACHINE;:: 1, 2_ 3. 4, 6. Unplug the machine and remove the presser foot and needle, Remove the bobbin cover plate. Remove the screw on the left s=de of the needle with the large screw driver. Remove the needle plate. J Use the lint brush to clean the feed dogs, hook race and bobbin h[...]

  • Page 54

    PARTS LIST 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 lO 12 14 15 / / 16 52[...]

  • Page 55

    All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears Roebuck and Co. store or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION: 1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION 3. MODEL NUMBER 4. NAME OF ITEM If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Dist[...]

  • Page 56

    INDEX A Accessory storage box ............... 2, 8 Appliqueing .................... 23, 32 B Bar tacking .................... 23, 32 Base ............................. 2 Basic zigzag ..................... 23, 30 Blind hemming ............... 23, 38_39 Bobbin ............. 4, 15_16, 50, 52_53 Bobbin holder .............. 16, 50"_51 Bobbin threa[...]

  • Page 57

    WARRANTY _ () FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD (_ For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head. # FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE _) For two years from the date of purchas[...]

  • Page 58

    SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when you call or visit, :l'he model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of your Sew[...]